­ The flight to the very edge of Europe begins in the Scottish city of Glasgow. It is like taking a trip back in time to the pioneering days of air travel when a journey by plane had an air of adventure to it.

It is also one of the best ways to get into the mood for tranquil days in the Outer Hebrides, a chain of islands off the west coast of Scotland where people seem to have an entirely different sense of time. No one hurries around these parts, which is hardly surprising on a remote string of islands on the rim of the North Atlantic Ocean ­ the next stop from here is America.

The plane takes its passengers to Barra, the most southern of the Outer Hebridean archipelago, also known as the Western Isles. Only 19 people fit into the Twin Otter turboprop operated by British Airways. Those lucky enough to have a window seat can enjoy some magnificent views on the way.

The aircraft touches down in the bay of Thràigh Mhòr, on the northern tip of Barra ­ as long as the waves permit. There are no markings to help pilots find their way onto a windswept beach which uniquely doubles up as a landing strip. Take-off and landing are governed by the tides and if the water is too high when the plane arrives, it has to turn round and fly back to Glasgow.

A glance around the terminal makes it plain that the pace of life on this island is much slower than on the mainland. Facilities are spartan and the only refreshments provided are those at the "Cafaidh Fosgailte" cafe, a family-run enterprise with a modest selection of homemade soups, sandwiches and cakes for travellers.

The arrival or departure of a plane here is the highlight of the day and shortly beforehand the cafe comes alive as tourists cluster around the tables.

Around 1,000 people live on Barra, an island of stunning beaches bordered by boggy farmland and a range of low hills to the east. The island is six kilometres long and four kilometres wide and is the ancient home of the MacNeil clan or "Eilean Bharraigh" clan, to give it the Gaelic name.

Most of the houses hereabouts are not particularly handsome since the islanders place more emphasis on their homes being practical and cheap. Visitors to Barra are attracted to the elemental and unspoilt beauty of the landscape.

Anyone in a hurry can hire a bicycle and ride around the whole island in about an hour and a half. The only settlement of any size is the village of Castlebay where three hotels - the "Castlebay" , the "Tigh-na-Mara" and the "Isle of Barra" offer rooms for the night.

The last named is a prime example of hideous 1970s architecture which is offset by the extremely friendly lady sitting at the reception desk. She is happy to give visitors all manner of tips, including which nearby hill to clamber up if they want to use their cellular phones ­ reception on Barra is generally poor.

Barra is a good place from which to explore the Outer Hebrides chain which extends for more than 200 kilometres. It's worth noting too than life on Barr, Uist, Lewis or Harris is even quieter than on the islands of the Inner Hebrides such as Mull, Jura and Skye which are not exactly inundated with tourists either.

Even in the high season it is not difficult to find a room ­ this may have something to do with the fact that the temperature in high summer rarely exceeds 20 degrees centigrade.

Bathing in the Atlantic is for the hardy only. To make up for it, the Outer Hebrides treat visitors to some of the most spectacular sandy beaches in Europe. They remain deserted even in July and August and all the tourist needs in order to enjoy them to the full is a roll-neck sweater.

The beach at Tráigh Losgaintir on Harris is regularly cited as the world's most beautiful yet remains far from the madding crowd.

Close by is one of the most pleasant places to stay in the entire Hebrides. Scarista House, run by Tim and Patricia Martin, has only four guest rooms, none of which feature a telephone connection or television. Instead there is a marvellous reading room with a log fire.

After evening meal is served punctually at 8 pm, most house guests like to stretch their legs and take a carefree stroll. There is no need to be back at any particular time or even to take a key since none of the doors of the rooms at Scarista House or indeed in any of the other hotels in the Hebrides, are fitted with locks.

Internet: www.visitbritain.com/, www.visitscotland.com, www.visithebrides.com.