Sir Edmund Hillary was honoured throughout the world as the first man,
with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, to climb Mount Everest, the world's highest
peak at 8,848 metres, in 1953.
He died Friday at the age of 88. In his native land, he was the
best-loved New Zealander of his generation and could have ruled the
country for years had he chosen to enter politics.
He was equally loved in Nepal where he reciprocated the affection
the Sherpas had for him by setting up a Himalayan Trust which built two
hospitals, 20-odd schools and a similar number of health clinics for
them.
A man who confessed in his autobiography, "I was always too
restless and life was a constant battle against boredom" also rode a
tractor to the South Pole, drove jet boats up the Ganges and served his
country as its top diplomat in India.
He remained restless and battling to the end, still travelling the
world, lecturing and raising money for his beloved Sherpas in his late
80s and making yet another trip to Kathmandu in 2006 to visit the
schools and clinics he established. He made his last trip to Antarctica
only a year ago.
Hillary was once an unknown 33-year-old beekeeper whose
mountaineering skills acquired on New Zealand's Southern Alps qualified
him to join a British expedition trying to conquer Mount Everest.
When he became the first man to stand on top of the world on May
29, 1953 - a few steps ahead of Tenzing, as both confirmed later in
their autobiographies - he could have retired immediately to a lazy
lifetime of fame and glory.
Made a Knight Commander of the Order of the British Empire two
months later by Queen Elizabeth, the world's most famous mountaineer
went on to receive a host of honours at home and abroad and to become
the only living New Zealander to have his image engraved on one of his
country's banknotes.
As Sir Edmund Hillary, he could have made celebrity appearances and wined and dined in luxury around the world for ever more.
But he chose to devote much of his life and energy to the Sherpa
people, who live in one of the most remote and impoverished parts of
Nepal and acted as guides and porters for the expedition.
After they had conquered the mountain, the New Zealander asked
Tenzing what he could do for the Sherpas to repay their help. Their
priorities were education and health care, he was told, and Hillary
promised to get them.
He founded the Himalayan Trust and toured the world to speak of
Everest, its neighbouring mountains on the roof of the world and the
100,000 Sherpas who live on them. He solicited funds to improve their
lives.
Apart from the schools, hospitals and clinics, the trust has built bridges, roads and airstrips.
But the lanky Hillary, who towered over the tiny Sherpas, was no
mere after-dinner speaking fund-raiser, and travelled to Nepal
regularly to work personally on the projects his trust financed.
"He would be right there carrying stones, carrying cement, wielding
a hammer, building right there beside them," said US photographer Anne
Keiser, who recorded his work there for two decades.
"He would never ask them to do anything he wouldn't do himself,"
she said. "Now a generation of Sherpas have been educated in Hillary's
schools."
It was a commitment not without personal cost to Hillary. His wife
Louise and 16-year-old daughter Belinda died in a plane crash near
Kathmandu in early 1975 while flying to join him.
A biography published in 2005 revealed that the accident plunged
him into a five-year depression which he countered with whisky and
sleeping pills.
"God knows if I'll have the courage to go on living," he wrote to friends soon after.
He suffered altitude sickness and was flown out of the mountains
with pulmonary oedema - fluid on the lungs - several times over the
years, being particularly cross with himself in 2001, at the age of 81,
when he had to be airlifted to hospital from "the very low altitude of
2,440 metres."
Most of his schools and clinics are at more than 3,000 metres and
he complained: "I used to have exceptional acclimatisation ability, but
over the decades it has gone downhill."
He had an earlier brush with death in 1998 when he developed
pneumonia while acting as a guide and commentator on a cruise ship in
the Antarctic - another regular means of raising funds for his
Himalayan Trust.
"I enjoy a challenge," he said, as he showed in January 1958 when
he completed an overland 3,200-kilometre tractor trip to the South
Pole, disobeying orders to wait short of the pole for the Englishman
Vivian Fuchs, leader of the British Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic
Expedition, to catch up with him.
"I'm not very good at obeying orders," he said at the time.
Other challenges included a 1960 Himalayan search for the mythical
yeti, or "abominable snowman," a geological and mountaineering
expedition to Antarctica, in which he conquered a previously unclimbed
peak, and a jet boat expedition up the Ganges River to its source in
the Himalayas in 1977.
He took up a new challenge in 1985-89, serving as his country's top
diplomat in India, accompanied by June, the widow of fellow mountaineer
Peter Mulgrew, who he later married.
Always self-effacing, Hillary once said: "I like to think that I am
a very ordinary New Zealander, not very bright perhaps, but determined
and practical in what I do."
He was never afraid to speak his mind, lashing out in 2005 at the
United States for building a 1,600-kilometre road across Antarctica and
accusing Britain of neglecting the historic huts of Robert Falcon Scott
- Scott of the Antarctic - who died on his way back from the South Pole
in 1912, and fellow polar explorer Ernest Shackleton.
Long the most famous living New Zealander, Hillary is assured of
immortality in his native land if only because of the phrase he uttered
when he came down from Everest - "We knocked the bastard off."
It shocked his mother, who disapproved of "those dreadful words",
but they have passed into the New Zealand lexicon and will always be
associated with him.